The Return of Gosha - Exclusive AW18 Photos

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There was a collective feeling that Gosha had somewhat lost it for the last two seasons in fashion. It seemed that the cool and irony had been lost and seemingly the ironic collaborations with brands that the youth wouldn't dare be seen in had been replaced by a flat, logocentric and banal collaboration with sportswear giant Adidas. The clothing was expected and uninspiring, and seemed to feed into the hype of the Supreme consumer, ie wanting everyone to know what (or rather who) you're wearing. The timing couldn't be worse, as the young consumer started to turn away from the idea of cheap branding sold at inflated prices, an "irony tax" perhaps, and towards a more exclusive "if you know, you know" attitude to clothing.

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This  new season, presented in Russia, to a select few from the fashion industry that made the journey and his devoted young Russian fans, was a triumphant return. Returning so quickly in fashion is a difficult feat, especially for such a young brand. Once an image becomes tarnished, it is very hard to replenish what once was and regain popularity; something that I'm sure Gosha will be working hard on in the next 6 months before this collection drops in shops.

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The usual procedure is that a brand deteriorates and looses capital to a point of desperation and eventually takes the support of a large investor that promises to restore their cool, but in fact tend to just create highly consumable products branded to death, hoping to make bank. I think Gosha would be smart enough to know that this wasn't a path he shouldn't take, however since the brand is owned and supported by Comme des Garcons, that's a path he didn't have to consider. With the backing of such a large and creatively supportive brand, Gosha would have been able to turn it around and give us that edge that we lost.

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The show was very nearly perfect for social media, and is an interesting model for shows to come in the future, a subject that might have been overlooked due to the business of all the fashion press with men's fashion month afoot. The models were instructed to enter the show space with attitude, and interact with the space as they would in their own home, being their own self, not a model; that's why they were specifically casted.

There were numerous sets in the space, resembling familiar places with iconic significance to the Russian DNA of the brand and show. Social media moments were created as the model with the infamous adidas three stripe hairstyle, watched television, other models in military inspired outfits head banged with electric guitars, and others climbed upon speaker rigs resembling a public demonstration, and this was the start of the rebellion.

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